We made it home! Didn't post this yesterday because...jetlag. Our last night in Paris was spent toasting and reminiscing over all the favorite things-- from lunches (Avignon) to trains (German) to museums (lots of debate, no clear winner, there were too many good ones!). But especially all the people--we got to see how and where our friends live and spend some memorable time together; that was incredible.Really really proud of these kids. They were adaptable, kind, and adventurous. Got lots of comments about their backpacks and how they were the same size as each kiddo--and they were so great about it! We all came back a little stronger (we averaged walking 6.5 miles a day!) and our bond was a family is stronger as well. We (mostly) remembered to speak up and stay kind and be full of grace when things got tough. On the flight home we started listing other places we'd like to visit, so our curiosity is still going strong. Had a good first day back. So great to see Mara again that we didn't mind at all when she hogged the bed. Couldn't find the strength to make dinner last night so we got Hawaiian BBQ and talked about the things we loved seeing and that we had missed. Claire mentioned that it was nice being able to read all the signs again, but that she still thought about things like, "it's full of locals, it must be a good place!" before she remembered that we are, once again, locals.

Paris. A delightful (and delicious) morning spent at the open air market down the street. Vendors yelling, fresh fish smelling, clothes & jewelry from around the world to tempt us--what a beautiful way to start the day. Had a wonderful lunch and then headed to our family's favorite museum: the Musée D'Orsay. Enjoyed ice cream, crepes, and waffles at the summer carnival in the Jardin de Tuileries before a bittersweet goodbye to our friends. What a gorgeous end to this trip of our dreams.

Paris. We called this our "posh" day where we dressed up a little extra special and did all kinds of things we had never done before! We saw as much as we could of L'Opera without a ticket, then had some incredible samples and watched chocolate being made at the Lindt store. We rode to the top of Galeries Lafayette for an amazing view and photo op. A little ladybug visited during lunch. We marveled at the glowing glass in Sainte Chappelle (and found the hidden bathrooms in the nearby courthouse!). Dinner was a feast for all the senses and then we enjoyed some silliness on the metro that was uncharacteristically empty on the way home! Paris, you really know how to enjoy life.

Polidor. Since 1845. Family atmosphere, incredible homemade style food, loud and tons of fun.

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A sneak peek into how people move into and out of these tall, historical buildings in France!

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Paris. Were wowed by the Eiffel Tower (it gets me every time). Had a glorious picnic in the Jardin de Luxembourg, and were unexpectedly witnesses to a fashion photo shoot of a very poufy orange dress! Spent a slow afternoon watching the people and the little sailboats and then walked through the Marais district. Ended up at our air bnb playing cards and catching up on life. So grateful for this time!

Paris. We ate and laughed and walked our way through the city today. Never had the luxury of time like this before! So many hidden gems (like the wooden turtle sculpture along the Seine) to be discovered. Everyone except Kirk had escargot. No pictures here because the phone died, but the faces were priceless... overall consensus was "not too bad" and we all loved the garlic butter they came in. Crepes, street artists, watching the progress on the rebuilding of Notre Dame, misty fountains to cool us down, we saw it all at the pace of strolling with an ice cream cone.

Huttenbouw Day 2: Another great day in Roelofsarendsveen. Less frenzied gathering and building, more finishing touches and painting. We got our flag up (we think it was in the top three for height), made a couch, attached a fence to the porch, and made decorations. The theme this year was board games, so the kids named our hut "Kaart Huis," meaning House of Cards.We had such a fun time getting a taste of this great community event, and we are so honored to have been included. We are already thinking about how to bring this to our community!

Roelofarensveen. Terrific day kicking off summer and the end of school in our friends' village. An incredible tradition--Huttenbouw (hut building) where an entire parking lot was filled with wood and pallets, you bring your own hand tools and the main rules are: no power tools and nothing over 3 stories. We had 3 families (6 adults and 7 kids) working together in Dutch and English and having so much fun! There was also a tent where you could make things with clay, get your face painted, make a flag for your hut, and lots more. We're proud of our first day accomplishments and are looking forward to morning when we can paint before heading off on a train.Today was also quite hot, so it was a perfect treat to jump in a canal and do some swimming and lake boarding right next to a windmill, and we rode bikes to get there, of course!

Amsterdam. A gorgeous day in this city of flowers and tall skinny houses and incredible museums. We started off somber in the Anne Frank House--such a tender and impactful retelling of her life and it's resonating influence. We walked and talked with Suzan & Maarten (who has been Claire's friend since kindergarten in Kenya) along canals bursting with houseboats and colorful shutters.In the afternoon at the Rijksmuseum, we donned lab coats and examined 6 works of art in detail to determine if they were "masterpieces" or not. Mission Masterpiece is a unique chance to act as a museum curator and use science & technology to analyze dates & artists of a piece. Seeing the perfection of Dutch artwork up close is what makes this museum so incredible, but this experience went beyond expectations. Rembrandt's "The Night Watch" is also being monitored for vibrations from the air and all the visitors so they could figure a safer way to hang it to better preserve the canvas. We learned so much and found the marriage of art and science in this place to be amazing.

Berlin. Reservations at the dome of the Bundestag-- great aerial views of the city plus comprehensive history of Germany's political eras. Walking tour of the Berlin Wall memorials--the exhibits are so well done, they really put a personal side to it and make you feel like you're right there. Heroic stories of families and strangers helping one another across the divide. Surreal even so many years later.

Please excuse our terrible German pronunciations. Apparently fake commercials are our new thing!

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Berlin. Early morning start after a rather rough night train ride (last one, though!). We didn't fully know what to expect, so we spent the first day full of curiosity and exploring. This is a city of opposites and history and contradiction and hope. From top left: the historic Brandenburg gate, the Rosenstrasse women's memorial, the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, Memorial to the July 10, 1933 Nazi book burning, the reverent silence around Neue Wache with the statue of a woman and her dead son commemorating the victims of war and tyranny, a giant waffle treat in Alexanderplaz, the world clock that the kids read about in the City Spies book series, the juxtaposition of a church that MLK Jr preached at next to the TV tower as a symbol of Soviet power, and a tasty 4 course dinner together as we reminisced about our day.

No humans were harmed in the making of this video (but we did get some strange looks).

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Tour of the night train between Basel and Berlin.

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Video #2 here!

Kandern. Had a really fun visit with the Dows today. Got to tour Black Forest Academy, hiked up to a view of their adorable town. Enjoyed home cooked food, laughed a lot, and almost fell off a mountain! So good to see old friends and spend time in their world.

So far, Swiss trains are our favorite. Very clean, seats recline comfortably, food is reasonably priced, and they have toilet paper (something we've learned not to take for granted). And, as expected, they run like clockwork on their timetables so you better believe that with only a 6 minute layover in Zurich, we RAN to catch our connecting train!

Munich. Early morning breakfast on the train, then a very wet morning walking the quiet Sunday streets. Saw the maypole (and went back for dinner at the beirgarten under the chestnut trees). Ducked into the Residenz Palace to dry off and learn about Bavarian royal history and marvel at their crown jewels. The day turned out beautiful, so we fueled up with pretzels and walked some more. Cheered on some brave people who surf the river in the park, heard a piano concert, and watched the famous glockenspiel clock in the New Town hall.

Tour of night train #2. How does OBB (Austrian rail) compare to SNCF (French rail)?

Part one here!

Part two here!

Venice. Spent the day getting intentionally lost (it's an island, so you can't get too lost!). Had cicchetti for lunch (tasty hot and cold appetizer style dishes) and saw gorgeous glass everywhere. Marveled as the tide rose and fell in this sinking city. Got invited to play in a pickup game of football (soccer) on the square we had stopped at in the afternoon--the little kids were an even match, but the group of guys on their bachelor's weekend were super good. Waiting now for a night train to Munich. Ciao, Italy!

Venice. An opulent feast for the senses. There is so much to see and it's all beautiful. We'll explore more tomorrow, but this afternoon we did two introductory tours to orient ourselves-one by boat taxi and and one by walking the twisty lanes.

The special moments of traveling can come when you least expect them. Even in this whirlwind trip, we tried to build in unplanned time to explore each place. This morning, a rainstorm cut short our walk through the outdoor market and we ducked into a delightful paper shop instead. We were treated to an impromptu paper marbling lesson and spent about an hour with this artisan who enchanted us all with his humor, passion, and craftsmanship.

Florence. So much beauty and genius in one day. Started early at the Uffizi Gallery, following the artistic path from medieval art and themes to seeing many of the Renaissance masters all in one place. Switched from art to science with the Galileo Museum and watched the progression of ideas of everything from magnification and weather to navigation and electricity unfold.Had some tasty sandwiches at the same tiny place we visited 20 years ago (it has been there since 1875!). Saw some beautiful craftsmanship at the school of leatherworking, and got some souvenirs. Warm afternoons mean gorgeous skies & siestas. Ended the day at The Accademia, admiring Michelangelo's unmatched talent.

Assisi to Florence. Started off with a breakfast of champions: cannoli! (OK, maybe not the most traditional way to start the day, but they had 12 flavors so we had to get serious.) Explored the Basilica of St. Francis, have always admired his nature-loving simplicity, but was struck this time by the depth of his friendships. Train to Florence brought time to journal and marvel at the sheer beauty of the Italian countryside. Florence at sunset really glowed, walked the historic streets as an overview for tomorrow's museums. We've tried to balance art, history, museums, and nature so we didn't overload in any area--Florence will bring it all together with Renaissance abundance!

Assisi. Love this town- from Rome we took a bus to a metro to 2 trains to another bus to get here and it was totally worth it. Every June there is a flower competition for the residents, we enjoyed every bloom of it! The views are breathtaking, the town is charming, the colors of sunset filled the sky.There also some cool California connections to Assisi: it's the town of St. Francis (San Francisco) and St. Clare (Santa Clara), and Los Angeles is named for the church down in the valley (Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli).

Public service announcement-I wasn't going to do this, but... Americans, please train your children. This video shows a lovely evening we had, a once in a lifetime experience for most of the people at this restaurant. Not pictured- the American family that made it horrible. The dad was on his phone the entire meal, the mom alternated between watching a video on her phone and playing card games with her kids (maybe 6 and 9?). They YELLED through the game Exploding Kittens during the meal and then disappeared, except for the youngest child who RAN back and forth through the restaurant with no parents in sight for the next HOUR until an Italian family (with a 2yr old who was delightful) finally complained.There have been *many* times when we just stopped speaking English. There is a reason that Americans have a bad reputation abroad. We have had a glorious time, meeting lovely people. It really doesn't have to be this way.P.S. Our kids are by no means perfect, and we've had some struggles on this trip, but we try to make sure that we don't negatively affect others' experiences when they're having a hard time. It's just not fair.

Video here!

Assisi. Dinner view. Agritourism and a 0 kilometer meal (everything grown and made here!). @lemandriedisanpaolo

Rome. A very full day. Everyone had run out of books to read (even after trading), so we stocked up at a small, but extremely well appointed Anglo book store. We all kept our hands at the mouth of truth (whew). In between major sights, we walked down some of the most picturesque lanes you could imagine. This morning was a bad one for influencers, which meant we got a good (and unique) view of the Trevi fountain--they were cleaning it when we arrived and it wasn't flowing. Watching the crew do their upkeep was interesting and then turned entertaining as they sprayed each other with the hose and threw coins back up to the people who didn't make it into the fountain. It gets cleaned 3x a week and more than 3,000€ worth of coins are thrown in each day (they get donated to charity). The water turned on after lots scrubbing and buckets of chlorine were added, and that was a sight to behold! Saw the Spanish steps and the sun shining through the Parthenon. The setting sun lit up the dove of peace at St. Paul's Basilica to make it glow, then got goosebumps at the statue just outside called "Angels Unawares." Check it out!

Pasta appreciation post. It's just soooooo good here.

Buongiorno from Roma

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We're getting the hang of train life. Journaling, reading, and snacks are packed for later.

Una Bella Notte

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Rome. Explored the Forum, so fun imagining life long ago! Worked up a good appetite for pasta and embraced the siesta. Lots of walking and bridges and some Gelato, too.

Rome. Gorgeous views of the Italian countryside and towns as we rode the train into Rome this morning. Got settled in our airbnb and went to Vatican City. Loved the Vatican museums (mummies to Renaissance to modern art all in one impressive building). Admired ancient sculptures and the Sistine Chapel. Learned a lot about marble and Raphael and Michelangelo (will always be searching paintings now for the artist's secret image!).

Naples/Pompeii. We've been holding out on pizza for a while now knowing that we'd soon be here: the birthplace of that perfect food! Totally worth the wait, so so good. Naples is just as wild and chaotic as we remember. Last time it was during a trash collection strike, so this time was much less... fragrant (except for the train back from Pompeii which was 30 minutes of standing too close to hot, sweaty tourists and commuters that I'd rather not talk about).Pompeii never disappoints. We spent most of our day exploring and visualizing life 2000+ years ago. This site makes it so easy. Incredible. The kids loved it, we loved exploring it again with them. Even got to see some on-going excavations, and are now all inspired to become archeologists!

Happy first day of summer! Here in Arles, it's the Fête de la Musique on every corner, even right outside our hotel window!

First video here!

Second video here!

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Fourth video here!

Arles. A gorgeous mix of ancient and modern. We walked in the footsteps of Vincent van Gogh, seeing the sights that inspired him when he was here. Wednesday was the perfect day to be here--market day (beaucoup de tresors) AND the start of a music festival, with venues all around the city to stop in and listen to. The ancient arena still holds (more humane) bullfights, and the theater has lighting for recent shows. Side note-things are really starting to heat up. We've been riding a heat wave since we arrived in Scotland, where it was unseasonably warm, and now as we enjoy the Mediterranean climate, it's necessary for more ice cream (and soon, Gelato) to stay comfortable!

Can't stop won't stop taking pictures of windows and rooftops. Arles has the cutest, most walkable streets. We learned that in the old part of town the shutters on the windows are historical and can't be changed, but residents can personalize them with fun colors and they do!

Avignon to Arles. Woke up after our night train (we all slept surprisingly well) to the south of France- the atmosphere changed perceptively: sun baked warm colors in contrast to the deep greens we'd seen up north. Saw the famous Pont d'Avignon (and have had the song stuck in our heads all day!), almost got run over on a tiny street by an even tinier bus, and had an incredible lunch to renew our energy.Headed over to Pont du Gard to see the astonishing Roman aqueduct, loved the museum, and really loved splashing in the river below to cool off!Sleeping in Arles tonight and tomorrow-had dinner just a stone's throw from the ancient Roman Arena. So many great memories, and a very full day.

Come along with us on our night train to Provence!

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Loire Valley. After driving through thunder storms all day yesterday, last night was for the gorgeous chateau Chenonceau, where we toured the castle (the children's audio guide was better- like a radio theater production that made it come alive), then walked the gorgeous grounds, including a hedge maze. Had dinner at the base of Amboise castle, in the quaint pedestrian district where we watched hot air balloons float luxuriously by.We started our morning today at Clos-Lucé, the last home of Leonardo da Vinci. The gardens were our favorite, with life- sized replicas of many of his incredible inventions that we could try out. Our rainy day continued as we had a delicious lunch before touring Cheverny, which is beautiful and also fun because the family still lives there (with their pack of 120 hunting dogs)! It was a whirlwind stop, but each place felt cozy in it's own way and we met the resident cats and dogs of each place-so surprising and delightful to find them napping peacefully in these famous museum settings.

it's 5:30am, and the birds are awake in Amboise!

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Mont St. Michel. This is a place where your imagination runs wild. We arrived at sunset when the light was truly magical. We had the whole island practically to ourselves and could picture life as it was 1000 years ago (we saw it in the story told in the Bayeux tapestry a few days ago). Before going to bed we clamored all over the ramparts, squeezed down tiny little alleyways, peeked through arrow slits down to the bay, and watched bats flit as if dancing.So glad we did, because the next morning it was pouring rain, and everything was dripping wet. An early morning laudes service set the tone, with the resident monks and nuns chanting in angelic French (only interrupted by thunder and seagulls). A hearty breakfast gave us energy to walk back up those millions of steps to tour the abbey. Put this on your bucket list and treat yourself to staying there, it's unforgettable.

Remember that time in France when mommy got electrocuted when taking a picture of wheat? Totally worth it. (Don't worry, she's fine. Just a very unexpected jolt.)

Happy Father's Day to Kirk! He is such a smart, patient, kind, and funny guy. This trip, like most things we do, would not be possible without him. (You should see the spreadsheets from the planning stages!) Like anything, when he does something, he does it with his whole heart.

An ode to Nutella. Our kids LOVE Nutella (at home we have to buy it at Costco to have enough and not go broke). But here, in France, they tell us it's even better. Must be the terroir! They have each devised their own method for maximum Nutella consumption: hollowing out a baguette and stuffing it full, splitting a baguette and spreading it on both sides for more surface area, and covering the top of a croissant until it drips down the sides. Which one would you do?

A truly delightful afternoon in Normandy with Karina (from our time here 20 years ago) and her lovely family, Vincent and Gabriel. We enjoyed a picnic at their house outside in the rain, and in true Norman fashion, the weather changed and we spent a sunny afternoon at the beach. The kids became fast friends as they built an emperor's palace out of shells for the crabs they found (evidence that we've been visiting lots of royal places lately). Lots of stories and laughing--we're already looking forward to another visit soon.

Bayeux. Such a peaceful, historic little town. Beautiful day for an afternoon trip to see the famous Bayeux Tapestry and cathedral. Another place that has added to their museum since the last time we were there- love the commentary, the detail, and now the tiny models of life in medieval times. Really cool for the kids to make the link to the Tower of London and Westminster Abby that we saw just a few days ago.

One of the fun things about traveling is noticing the little differences. After getting groceries, we saw that many things have a "nutri-score" displayed on them. The chocolate chip cookies got the same score (C) as the granola, "they're practically health food!" Milk, yogurt, and crackers all received a B, the sausage got the worst score (E) but it was delicious anyway. We'll keep our eyes out for more!

On the train to Bayeux. So far, we've taken airplanes, cars, the underground, trams, a ferry, and busses. And lots of time spent on the ankle express (25,000 steps yesterday!).

Petit pique-nique dans l'appartement. Salut!

Caen. Overnight ferry got us in really early to our old stomping grounds. Lots has changed, glad to recognize some old favorites, though.Top right: found our old address from 20 years ago, so many great memories there. Bottom right: the view out the window of our air bnb, a cute little spot near Saint-Sauveur. Bottom left: barquettes for lunch at the kebab place we still dream about--the owner is still there, and it's every bit as good as it once was (it has gotten so many awards over the years!); so fun to introduce the kids to it! Left middle and top: exploring the castle of William the Conqueror, we were excited to learn about the many archeological discoveries they've made in the past couple of years. A busy day of sightseeing plus laundry and groceries because life goes on, even on vacation!

A tour of our cabin on the overnight ferry last night!

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Laundry day! How it started- watching with interest and Journaling...How it's going- napping with dad while mom and the big girls get snacks!