Friday, June 30, 2023
The special moments of traveling can come when you least expect them. Even in this whirlwind trip, we tried to build in unplanned time to explore each place. This morning, a rainstorm cut short our walk through the outdoor market and we ducked into a delightful paper shop instead. We were treated to an impromptu paper marbling lesson and spent about an hour with this artisan who enchanted us all with his humor, passion, and craftsmanship.
Thursday, June 29, 2023
Florence. So much beauty and genius in one day. Started early at the Uffizi Gallery, following the artistic path from medieval art and themes to seeing many of the Renaissance masters all in one place. Switched from art to science with the Galileo Museum and watched the progression of ideas of everything from magnification and weather to navigation and electricity unfold.Had some tasty sandwiches at the same tiny place we visited 20 years ago (it has been there since 1875!). Saw some beautiful craftsmanship at the school of leatherworking, and got some souvenirs. Warm afternoons mean gorgeous skies & siestas. Ended the day at The Accademia, admiring Michelangelo's unmatched talent.
Wednesday, June 28, 2023
Assisi to Florence. Started off with a breakfast of champions: cannoli! (OK, maybe not the most traditional way to start the day, but they had 12 flavors so we had to get serious.) Explored the Basilica of St. Francis, have always admired his nature-loving simplicity, but was struck this time by the depth of his friendships. Train to Florence brought time to journal and marvel at the sheer beauty of the Italian countryside. Florence at sunset really glowed, walked the historic streets as an overview for tomorrow's museums. We've tried to balance art, history, museums, and nature so we didn't overload in any area--Florence will bring it all together with Renaissance abundance!
Tuesday, June 27, 2023
Assisi. Love this town- from Rome we took a bus to a metro to 2 trains to another bus to get here and it was totally worth it. Every June there is a flower competition for the residents, we enjoyed every bloom of it! The views are breathtaking, the town is charming, the colors of sunset filled the sky.There also some cool California connections to Assisi: it's the town of St. Francis (San Francisco) and St. Clare (Santa Clara), and Los Angeles is named for the church down in the valley (Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli).
Public service announcement-I wasn't going to do this, but... Americans, please train your children. This video shows a lovely evening we had, a once in a lifetime experience for most of the people at this restaurant. Not pictured- the American family that made it horrible. The dad was on his phone the entire meal, the mom alternated between watching a video on her phone and playing card games with her kids (maybe 6 and 9?). They YELLED through the game Exploding Kittens during the meal and then disappeared, except for the youngest child who RAN back and forth through the restaurant with no parents in sight for the next HOUR until an Italian family (with a 2yr old who was delightful) finally complained.There have been *many* times when we just stopped speaking English. There is a reason that Americans have a bad reputation abroad. We have had a glorious time, meeting lovely people. It really doesn't have to be this way.P.S. Our kids are by no means perfect, and we've had some struggles on this trip, but we try to make sure that we don't negatively affect others' experiences when they're having a hard time. It's just not fair.
Monday, June 26, 2023
Rome. A very full day. Everyone had run out of books to read (even after trading), so we stocked up at a small, but extremely well appointed Anglo book store. We all kept our hands at the mouth of truth (whew). In between major sights, we walked down some of the most picturesque lanes you could imagine. This morning was a bad one for influencers, which meant we got a good (and unique) view of the Trevi fountain--they were cleaning it when we arrived and it wasn't flowing. Watching the crew do their upkeep was interesting and then turned entertaining as they sprayed each other with the hose and threw coins back up to the people who didn't make it into the fountain. It gets cleaned 3x a week and more than 3,000€ worth of coins are thrown in each day (they get donated to charity). The water turned on after lots scrubbing and buckets of chlorine were added, and that was a sight to behold! Saw the Spanish steps and the sun shining through the Parthenon. The setting sun lit up the dove of peace at St. Paul's Basilica to make it glow, then got goosebumps at the statue just outside called "Angels Unawares." Check it out!
Sunday, June 25, 2023
Saturday, June 24, 2023
Rome. Gorgeous views of the Italian countryside and towns as we rode the train into Rome this morning. Got settled in our airbnb and went to Vatican City. Loved the Vatican museums (mummies to Renaissance to modern art all in one impressive building). Admired ancient sculptures and the Sistine Chapel. Learned a lot about marble and Raphael and Michelangelo (will always be searching paintings now for the artist's secret image!).
Friday, June 23, 2023
Naples/Pompeii. We've been holding out on pizza for a while now knowing that we'd soon be here: the birthplace of that perfect food! Totally worth the wait, so so good. Naples is just as wild and chaotic as we remember. Last time it was during a trash collection strike, so this time was much less... fragrant (except for the train back from Pompeii which was 30 minutes of standing too close to hot, sweaty tourists and commuters that I'd rather not talk about).Pompeii never disappoints. We spent most of our day exploring and visualizing life 2000+ years ago. This site makes it so easy. Incredible. The kids loved it, we loved exploring it again with them. Even got to see some on-going excavations, and are now all inspired to become archeologists!
Wednesday, June 21, 2023
Arles. A gorgeous mix of ancient and modern. We walked in the footsteps of Vincent van Gogh, seeing the sights that inspired him when he was here. Wednesday was the perfect day to be here--market day (beaucoup de tresors) AND the start of a music festival, with venues all around the city to stop in and listen to. The ancient arena still holds (more humane) bullfights, and the theater has lighting for recent shows. Side note-things are really starting to heat up. We've been riding a heat wave since we arrived in Scotland, where it was unseasonably warm, and now as we enjoy the Mediterranean climate, it's necessary for more ice cream (and soon, Gelato) to stay comfortable!
Tuesday, June 20, 2023
Avignon to Arles. Woke up after our night train (we all slept surprisingly well) to the south of France- the atmosphere changed perceptively: sun baked warm colors in contrast to the deep greens we'd seen up north. Saw the famous Pont d'Avignon (and have had the song stuck in our heads all day!), almost got run over on a tiny street by an even tinier bus, and had an incredible lunch to renew our energy.Headed over to Pont du Gard to see the astonishing Roman aqueduct, loved the museum, and really loved splashing in the river below to cool off!Sleeping in Arles tonight and tomorrow-had dinner just a stone's throw from the ancient Roman Arena. So many great memories, and a very full day.
Loire Valley. After driving through thunder storms all day yesterday, last night was for the gorgeous chateau Chenonceau, where we toured the castle (the children's audio guide was better- like a radio theater production that made it come alive), then walked the gorgeous grounds, including a hedge maze. Had dinner at the base of Amboise castle, in the quaint pedestrian district where we watched hot air balloons float luxuriously by.We started our morning today at Clos-Lucé, the last home of Leonardo da Vinci. The gardens were our favorite, with life- sized replicas of many of his incredible inventions that we could try out. Our rainy day continued as we had a delicious lunch before touring Cheverny, which is beautiful and also fun because the family still lives there (with their pack of 120 hunting dogs)! It was a whirlwind stop, but each place felt cozy in it's own way and we met the resident cats and dogs of each place-so surprising and delightful to find them napping peacefully in these famous museum settings.
Sunday, June 18, 2023
Mont St. Michel. This is a place where your imagination runs wild. We arrived at sunset when the light was truly magical. We had the whole island practically to ourselves and could picture life as it was 1000 years ago (we saw it in the story told in the Bayeux tapestry a few days ago). Before going to bed we clamored all over the ramparts, squeezed down tiny little alleyways, peeked through arrow slits down to the bay, and watched bats flit as if dancing.So glad we did, because the next morning it was pouring rain, and everything was dripping wet. An early morning laudes service set the tone, with the resident monks and nuns chanting in angelic French (only interrupted by thunder and seagulls). A hearty breakfast gave us energy to walk back up those millions of steps to tour the abbey. Put this on your bucket list and treat yourself to staying there, it's unforgettable.
An ode to Nutella. Our kids LOVE Nutella (at home we have to buy it at Costco to have enough and not go broke). But here, in France, they tell us it's even better. Must be the terroir! They have each devised their own method for maximum Nutella consumption: hollowing out a baguette and stuffing it full, splitting a baguette and spreading it on both sides for more surface area, and covering the top of a croissant until it drips down the sides. Which one would you do?
Saturday, June 17, 2023
A truly delightful afternoon in Normandy with Karina (from our time here 20 years ago) and her lovely family, Vincent and Gabriel. We enjoyed a picnic at their house outside in the rain, and in true Norman fashion, the weather changed and we spent a sunny afternoon at the beach. The kids became fast friends as they built an emperor's palace out of shells for the crabs they found (evidence that we've been visiting lots of royal places lately). Lots of stories and laughing--we're already looking forward to another visit soon.
Friday, June 16, 2023
Bayeux. Such a peaceful, historic little town. Beautiful day for an afternoon trip to see the famous Bayeux Tapestry and cathedral. Another place that has added to their museum since the last time we were there- love the commentary, the detail, and now the tiny models of life in medieval times. Really cool for the kids to make the link to the Tower of London and Westminster Abby that we saw just a few days ago.
One of the fun things about traveling is noticing the little differences. After getting groceries, we saw that many things have a "nutri-score" displayed on them. The chocolate chip cookies got the same score (C) as the granola, "they're practically health food!" Milk, yogurt, and crackers all received a B, the sausage got the worst score (E) but it was delicious anyway. We'll keep our eyes out for more!
Thursday, June 15, 2023
Caen. Overnight ferry got us in really early to our old stomping grounds. Lots has changed, glad to recognize some old favorites, though.Top right: found our old address from 20 years ago, so many great memories there. Bottom right: the view out the window of our air bnb, a cute little spot near Saint-Sauveur. Bottom left: barquettes for lunch at the kebab place we still dream about--the owner is still there, and it's every bit as good as it once was (it has gotten so many awards over the years!); so fun to introduce the kids to it! Left middle and top: exploring the castle of William the Conqueror, we were excited to learn about the many archeological discoveries they've made in the past couple of years. A busy day of sightseeing plus laundry and groceries because life goes on, even on vacation!
Stonehenge. Started the day with a full English breakfast at our hostel in London-we needed the energy for moving stones and walking through the fields! Majestic and mysterious, the stones were awe-inspiring. The weather was sunny with a light breeze, we couldn't have asked for a more beautiful day. The UK has been lovely, next stop: France!
Wednesday, June 14, 2023
Tuesday, June 13, 2023
London sights. Buckingham Palace, changing of the horse guard, wildflowers at the Tower of London (our Yeoman guard, John, was awesome). We also saw Big Ben and Parliament but the phone died, so no pics here (Kirk got them on his camera). Enjoyed a special treat-Evensong service at Westminster Abbey- before heading back for dinner and bed!
Melbourne to East Leaky to Windsor to London. Woke up in the adorable town of Melbourne at Kate, Dave, and their boys' house. Met Roxy, another friend from France, and her daughter for breakfast and a chance to stretch our legs at a park. Spent the afternoon exploring Windsor castle- saw Queen Mary's incredible dollhouse replica of the castle, many suits of armor, and famous portraits of royalty. Made it to our hostel tonight, ate a tasty meal at an ancient pub, Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese, and are ready for bed! Should be waking up to the bells of St. Paul's cathedral, which we can see from our window.
Melbourne. Had a LONG day of driving and practice in being flexible. Experienced all types of weather (that sign says "yellow warning: heavy rain forecast," they were not kidding) and stopped for fun snacks and gorgeous scenery (the fields are full of lambs right now!). When we arrived in Melbourne, we had the warmest of welcomes and were treated to a fully array of English dishes. So fun meeting the family of our friend Kate from when we lived in France. The kids played dinosaur soccer and jumped on the trampoline like they've always known each other and we all stayed up too late chatting. Their hospitality was such a gift that turned a hard day into a beautiful one.
Saturday, June 10, 2023
Crail (and St. Andrews). Fun at the seaside with the Daggetts. Scrambling over rocks, gathering shells and checking out jellyfish. Walking the coast trail is straight out of a movie- the cutest coastal town and tiny flowers growing out of rock walls everywhere. St Andrews had all the stunning architecture and history. Catching up with sweet friends made us so so grateful to start our trip like this.
Friday, June 9, 2023
Thursday, June 8, 2023
Wednesday, June 7, 2023
What do you get when you add up 5 backpacks, 7 sets of friends stitched together over 20 years and 7 countries like a constellation, and 13 years of cc points, and multiply it by travel by sea, air, train, and car? An epic trip! Come along if you'd like to join us! (And in an extreme and unintentional act of "unplugging," one of us forgot our phone at home- so if you really need to contact us, you can text or whatsapp Kirk, message us thru IG, or email us)
Tuesday, June 6, 2023
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